Over the past two years, I have described the SPF test method and its alternatives several times. In my last column, “Two additions to the SPF toolbox!” in January 2025, two new alternative methods were presented [1-3]. Particularly in Europe, I am seeing some confusion about what exactly this means. The framework for SPF testing…
In late 2024, two long-awaited alternative SPF test methods were finally published: ISO 23675:2024 and ISO 23698:2024 [1]. What does this mean? How soon will these methods be adopted? Will their SPF always match the in vivo gold standard ISO 24444? And which of the three available official ISO methods will apply in case of…
Sunlight has a stronger neuro-effect than any of the active ingredient in cosmetics. How can we best tame this freely available, most potent neuro-cosmetic? The answer is: with sunscreen. 1. Neurocosmetics Trends, Actives and Effects Neuro cosmetics cater to the growing demand for products that not only improve skin appearance but also enhance overall well-being…
In the first two Sweep-the-Sun columns in summer 2022, we looked at the revised ISO 24444:2019 Gold standard and at the alternative methods [1, 2]. So it’s time to take another look at the progress made. The Consortium ALT-SPF conducted the largest interlaboratory-test to date about a year ago, but the reports on the test…
In this column we will discuss how good intentions can lead to unintended consequences. To set the stage, ChatGPT (OpenAI, 3.5) helped me find examples of well-intended actions with unintended consequences. Here are three of them that may also be relevant in terms of sunscreen applications: Let’s explore three examples of good intentions of sunscreen…
Background A key challenge in formulating sunscreens is deciding on the UV filter platform, as recently described by Hanay and Osterwalder [1] and also by Sohn et al [2]. Apart from the US, where the number of available UV filters is very limited, in Europe and the rest of the world there still seems to…
The 16th Sun Protection Conference in London 2023 provided ideas on how this could happen. Indeed, the phrase “Imagine if…” was the title of the final talk of this year’s two-day event, given by Prof. Paul Matts, Vice President of Research and Development at P&G in the UK and new head of the organizing committee….
The Florida SCC Sunscreen Symposium is a traditional gathering of the sunscreen manufacturing and supplier industry. It is held biannually in mid-September. Also, Covid-19 could not stop it, since its peak fell right in between the 2019 and 2021 edition. As a positive remainder of the pandemic, there are still some video sessions, especially with…
In this Sweep the Sun column we discuss the popular sunscreen claims about reef safety Since the bans of some UV filters on some islands or US states, “reef-safe” has become a worldwide claim (Figure 1). Let’s take a closer look at the background of this claim.A few months ago, we already discussed “Transparency in…
The first Sunscreen Simulator was developed and made available on the Internet by Ciba Specialty Chemicals in 2002. In the meantime, it has been improved by BASF 2011, and since 2017 we also have the DSM Sunscreen Optimizer on the Internet. Does this mean that we have an artificial intelligence (AI) solution to predict sunscreen…
There is a trend towards more transparency in cosmetics, e.g. by sharing EXTRA ingredient list information not required by law, especially by Big Beauty companies. P&G Expands Transparency Commitment to include Fragrance ingredients across Product Portfolio. Unilever announces new ingredient transparency initiative for its home and beauty & personal care brands, and L’OREAL received the…
When I say “Nano means Big”, I do so in reference to UV filters. Of course, I am not contesting the etymology of the Latin word “nañus” (dwarf) and Ancient Greek word “nânos”. I am just comparing UV filters. In my column last month, “Are sunscreens safe”, we saw that organic UV filters usually penetrate…
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