Protecting your hair from pollution (2)
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Protecting your hair from pollution – Formulation perspective

by Reignah Raegan J, Anjali Gholap, Rachna Rastogi

Written by Rachna Rastogi, Reignah Raegan J and Anjali Gholap
Euro Cosmetics Magazine April 2024
April 2024
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Digital

Abstract

Much attention is given to protecting facial skin from damage caused by exposure to sunlight and pollutants. However, we tend to overlook the fact that our scalp and hair are also exposed to harmful UV rays, pollutants in the air and water, and the chemicals present in hair care products that we use daily. This paper discusses the impact of pollution on hair health, the preventative measures to tackle the damage done and the potential actives that can be used in haircare formulations to provide protection.

Introduction

Hair is often used as an indicator of pollution exposure in environmental studies as many types of pollutants tend to adhere to it. The scalp and hair can collect pollutants from both the air and
water, resulting in various issues such as itching, redness, trichodynia, psoriasis, and damaged, frizzy hair caused by accumulated oxidative stress. This oxidative stress is further aggravated in the presence of UV rays, potentially damaging the pre- and postemerging hair fibers, which leads to senescent alopecia, greying, hair weathering, lipid peroxidation, and flaky scalp. 1

Impact of Pollution on hair shaft and scalp

a. Sensitive Scalp syndrome:
People who work in metropolitan areas report having pain in the hair roots, dandruff, hair loss, prickling sensation in the scalp, and itching. Research has named this “Sensitive Scalp Syndrome”, which is caused by exposure to rising air pollution levels that result in depositions on the scalp. In an epidemiological survey conducted in French population (1011 subjects), women were reported to be suffering from sensitive scalp issues more than men (47.4% of women versus 40.8% of men). Hair loss and scalp itching was significantly associated with scalp sensitivity. The main triggering factors were pollution, heat, cold climate, air humidity, emotional stress and shampoos. 2
Additionally, prolonged cell phone radiation can lead to hair loss by temporarily harming hair root cells. A study reported that short-term exposure (15 to 30 min) to RF radiations from a mobile
phone during calls caused a significant increase in DNA single- strand breaks in human hair root cells located around the ear.
Long-term exposure could lead to a range of problems, including hair thinning, breakage, and even balding. 3

b. Damaged Hair Shafts:
The hair shaft is mainly composed of proteins and is innately hydrophobic. Protein carbonylation is an irreversible oxidative damage caused by UV rays, chemical grooming treatments, chlorine-
treated swimming pools and air pollutants. It is a hallmark indicator of oxidative stress on hair fibre. The oxidative stress alters the hydrophobicity by modifying the sidechains of amino acids. It also disrupts the outer F-layer made of 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA) lipid, thus making damaged hair hydrophilic and more susceptible to structural breakdown. 4, 5
Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons have been shown to cause cuticle delamination and cortical degeneration in hair samples taken from China’s polluted cities, according to spectroscopic examination. The investigation also shows that UV radiation exacerbates damage to the melanosomes in hair, resulting in hair bleaching.6
Cigarette smoke is also detrimental to hair fibres because it comprises of carbon monoxide, PM 2.5 and -10, nicotine, nitrogen oxides, and tar. To replicate a contaminated environment, cigarette smoke was used in a study on virgin and bleached hair tresses. According to the study, hair fibers exposed to cigarette smoke had poor combability, damaged cuticle layers, and lower tryptophan content.7
The presence of calcium and magnesium ions from hard water causes fibre stiffening, disruption in style retention, bad combing experience.8 Furthermore, copper ions from treated swimming pools and tap water can exacerbate hair damage when exposed to UV radiation and hair colorants due to their catalytic properties.9

Treatments

As the structure of hair fibre cannot be repaired, it is crucial to use hair care products and cultivate habits to prevent damage due to environmental factors.
Some methods to protect hair and scalp from pollutants:

  1. Perform deep cleaning to completely remove pollutants from the hair and scalp.
  2. Use products with film formers that prevent pollutants from entering the hair and causing damage.
  3. Neutralize pollutants or their effect using antioxidants and chelating agents.
  4. Wear protective gear to minimise deposition of particulate pollutants.

A study done on young people residing in metro cities revealed that a haircare regimen which involved cleansing using shampoo containing EDTA twice a week along with application of 2% minoxidil solution on the scalp and coconut oil on the hair shaft was very effective within 6-8 weeks. The haircare routine reduced hair loss, hair frizziness, scalp irritation and burning problems caused by pollution.10

Formulating hair care products with “anti-pollution” claims

Formulating haircare products with ‘anti-pollution’ claims is a complex process that involves selecting the right ingredients and technologies to protect the hair from pollutants and UV radiation. The products need to provide a barrier against pollutants while also nourishing the scalp and strengthening the hair shaft. Such products typically contain chelating agents, antioxidants, UV protectants, and ingredients that strengthen the hair’s natural defences. These products can help to prevent hair damage, breakage, and loss caused by environmental pollutants. The formulation should also be mild, gentle ensuring that it does not strip the scalp of its natural oils thereby causing dry scalp conditions.
Some actives that are tailored for “anti-pollution” claims for haircare formulations are listed below (Table 1):

Conclusion

In conclusion, haircare products with “pollution protection” benefits are increasingly important in today’s world due to the high levels of pollutants and UV radiation in the environment. Formulators can design haircare products with various film formers and actives to provide protection against environmental stressors. Further, suitable testing models need to be designed to evaluate products and treatments for “anti-pollution” or “pollution-protect” claims.

References

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  3. Çam S, Seyhan N. Single-strand DNA breaks in human hair root cells exposed to mobile phone radiation. Int J Radiat Biol. 2012 Feb 21;88(5):420–4.
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